Atsushi “Art” Hayakawa is not out to dazzle you with decor. This restaurant is a temple to fish, and the chef is nothing if not a purist. He serves lavishly thick slices of tuna, salmon, mackerel, and red snapper over rice with a dot of wasabi and nothing more. If Hayakawa offers you the chance to compare the flavor of uni (sea urchin) from northern and eastern Hokkaido, say yes.
5979 Buford Highway, 770-986-0010, atlantasushibar.com
Correction: This story has been updated to reflect that the name Sushi House Hayakawa was retired in 2016 and replaced with Sushi Hayakawa.